The inner boxe's dimensions are 9/10 of the outer box in all three directions. That means that the volume of the inner box is 0.9x0.9x0.9 = 72.9% of the outer box. Yet even knowing this to a mathematical certainty does not prevent the illusion that it must surely be more. The human brain is not particularly good at handling high dimensions and their results.
A six dimensional box covering 90% of the range in all directions would occupy only 0.9^6=53% of the total volume. The result is that people generating the game's plants are going to place them all in the middle of a vast space. The dwarve's job will then be to bring soil conditions to the middle of that space.
Once again, I just have to ask why you think permutations have anything to do with anything? What, when we introduce alpha masks to a color image, do we have to arbitrarily reduce the number of colors in the regular image, just because otherwise, the number of digits in a mathematically derived formula that has little to do with image quality will not be an "ugly" number of digits?
When arguing for something, you first have to explain what you are arguing for, and then explain why your position is better. You put up an image of cubes and some mathematical ratios, but then don't explain why they are relevant in any way to the argument.
You can't just create a field of perfect soil in real life by simply dumping all the fertilizer you can get your hands on in a giant pile, either.
I don't believe that assertion. If I want soil that matches some setting, I can just dump soil with that setting on my fields. If I want to adjust a setting up/down, I add whatever is missing or needs to be countered. And this brings up an aspect I haven't seen in this thread, the matter of moving soil that matches a criteria for a given crop. Maybe crushed Microcline is especially suited to growing UnderLillies. Transferring the rock to the fields could be one way to do it.
This isn't a matter of belief or disbelief, it's a matter of finding facts to support your claims. When people argue beliefs, everything just devolves into screaming matches. (Yay religion arguments!) I think this, especially the last one helps this point:
5 signs of nitrogen deficiency.
5 signs of phosphorous deficiency.
Potassium: A critical garden nutrient (same site as above two).
Potassium deficiency in plants (wikipedia)
Some general info on the NPK system including signs of too little and too much of each nutrient (except too much phosphorous, as its pretty much impossible).
Plants with too much Nitrogen get "nitrogen burning". The same goes for potassium. You can over-water crops, and kill them. An overabundance of biomass can introduce too many bacteria that can leave plants vulnerable to disease. Acidity is an obvious balancing act. So no, you can't just dump a massive load of fertilizer on the soil and make everything fine.
Here's also a point on soil acidity:
http://www.thegardenhelper.com/acidsoil.html Quoting the most salient part, "
Generally speaking, it is easier to make soils more alkaline than it is to make them more acid. Because different soil types react in different ways to the application of lime you will have to add more lime to clay soils and peaty soils than you will in sandy soils to achieve the same result.
To increase your pH by 1.0 point and make your soil more alkaline:
- Add 4 ounces of hydrated lime per square yard in sandy soils
- Add 8 ounces of hydrated lime per square yard in loamy soils
- Add 12 ounces of hydrated lime per square yard in clay soils
- Add 25 ounces of hydrated lime per square yard in peaty soils
Correction of an overly acid soil should be considered a long term project, rather than trying to accomplish it in one year. It is better to test your soil each year and make your adjustments gradually.
We have a wealth of rock types, and each rock type could have basic soil parameters (could be measured as %(max-min) for resolution needs). How many rock types are there? Quite a few ecological niches. It may be that 'mud' needs to be a type of mud, such as red sand mud, or orthoclase mud. Then it could be transportable.
There are measurements for the density, shear yield, tensile fracture, compressive strain at yield, and basically thirty other properties of every material already in the game.
Every material in the game - not just metals, but every stone, type of hair, leather, skin, organ meat, etc. The thing about it is that the
overwhelming majority of this is dummied out data, because it's a simply absurd amount of individual data points for one guy to punch in. Virtually every type of stone in the game that isn't ore has the same basic shear yield data, and the only things that are really different are the melting points.
So yes, soil types are probably going to have some default mineral values, but I'm expecting the majority of general stone types to, similarly, have a "default stone" value for minerals, with the really notables (like limestone or sulfur) having a few seperate values. Honestly, though, most stones really don't even matter - they're a different enough mix of certain minerals that you can assume they perform a function similar to most other stones, and stones should be very bad places to farm, generally, because you need soil, not stone to grow anything but the hardiest of plants. (And I mean lichens, not something you'd really consider eating.)
As for having "different types of mud", then of course there's no way to have a different kind of mud for every possible combination of values - if data on the soil is tracked in the "mud", which is a fine way of doing it (although soil layers will need a "topsoil" or similar "floor covering" for their data recording, although we could simply merge that with mud, and create a "soil" item that sits on the floor of any place that has soil beneath it, or is in a cavern by default, and which gets added to the tile when the tile is flooded,) so what we need is simply a soil item that has several variables attached to it that are kept in a seperate area of memory, the way that contaminants already do.