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Author Topic: The Generic Computer Advice Thread  (Read 574523 times)

AzyWng

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Re: The Generic Computer Advice Thread
« Reply #5100 on: August 10, 2023, 09:46:14 am »

I've been having problems with running games like Battle Brothers (which outright won't run/crashes when I enter battle), Dead Rising 2 (which has audio issues in the intro cutscene and also crashes when loading into Fortune City after loading a saved game), and so on, and...

I'm not sure I fully or at all understand the issues. I've been looking in some discords and so forth but haven't had much success - sometimes people don't respond or don't know enough to help me. Where do I go when these issues arise?
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Lord Shonus

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Re: The Generic Computer Advice Thread
« Reply #5101 on: August 10, 2023, 09:47:29 am »

That sounds like a crash on loading data from disk, or else a RAM issue.
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King Zultan

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Re: The Generic Computer Advice Thread
« Reply #5102 on: August 11, 2023, 04:44:20 am »

That sounds a lot like what my laptop did when the mother board was dying, it worked fine for everything but internet and anything graphically intense. So you might want check it just in case.
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bloop_bleep

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Re: The Generic Computer Advice Thread
« Reply #5103 on: August 11, 2023, 09:57:59 am »

To check your disk health you can look at the SMART data by downloading Crystal Disk Info.

To check RAM you can use memtest86. You'd need to put it on a USB drive and boot from it.
« Last Edit: August 11, 2023, 10:01:56 am by bloop_bleep »
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Re: The Generic Computer Advice Thread
« Reply #5104 on: August 11, 2023, 09:14:29 pm »

I'm trying to figure out what things take up the most space on my hard drive, to prioritize moving them to another drive. I can't use Windows 10 storage menu in settings to view this, since it reports obviously incorrect values (such as 707GB for a small app on my 512GB drive.) How can I find out what takes up the most space? Ideally without installing another piece of software.
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Schmaven

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Re: The Generic Computer Advice Thread
« Reply #5105 on: August 11, 2023, 10:17:56 pm »

Last time I did that, I was able to select groups of folders, and see their size in the properties menu.  Then by checking various selections and drilling deeper into the file structure, was able to figure it out.  The details view sometimes gives you folder content / file size info too, but Windows updates & changes things a lot.
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Starver

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Re: The Generic Computer Advice Thread
« Reply #5106 on: August 12, 2023, 07:59:13 am »

Windows 10 (and, I think, since Vista) makes a lot of softlinks. Such that My Pictures, My Documents and the like are 'present' under different folders/directories in ways that can be counted by folder-sizing (righthclick properties or even DIR /S) that they never were when they were just shortcuts.  If My Pictures is softlinked under My Documents (I don't have an example to test, right now, but I wouldn't be surprised) then you'd get everything in the former listed under the latter's interogation. And if you checked both "My"s under the folder (or virtual folder object) that modern Windows tries to insist is your "home" folder) in a single action then it might even double-count contents as it follows both softl8nks and all softlinks beneath.


Can't test this, right now (I don't have any Windows machines within easy reach, and those within nearest non-eqsy reach ate 2K and XP, far more honest about these things), but I suspect the commandline DIR /S /A-L foo would look at the cummulative size of "foo" without following any symbolic links.

If "foo" is a directory, it'll list all things under that (that aren't softlinked) and give you a bytes total at the end. A true idea of the contents. If you're in a (hypothetical) "...\my documents\projects" directory you can DIR /S /A-L project2 for the "...my documents\projects\project2" directory contents, without (I'm imagining) following any shared-data link that might have been set up (maybe with XCOPY /B ... ... type command, or application/installation equivalent system call) to give access to the same subordinate recerence directory as "project1" has (or was similarly linked to).

If it's only a potential file-name (or a wildcard match) then it'll traverse all directories from here (or the path you prepend it) to try to find that. A different example is DIR /A-D /S /B /L \*.txt which I might use to list (in bare and lowercase format) all .txt files below the root (\) of the current drive. (The /A-D says don't list directories... as if I'd expect any directoriew to have a .txt extension (they can, of course!) ... but handily gets around the default "don't dive into hidden/system directories" behaviour because it will now search through them all.) In your case, if you think you know that you've got some particularly large (say) .avi files squirreled away somewhere under F:\JUNK, you might therefore use DIR /A-L /S F:\JUNK\*.avi and it'll show only those things truly somewhere under there and not via some link over to C: or elsewhere in F:... ((I presume, I must add.))

...because these commands (potentially) give a huge long list of contents (and, without the "/B" (bare-format) tag used, in sequential directory header, unqualified contents and directory footer), either redirect to a file with command > list.txt, to then let you notepad list.txt/similar to peruse at leisure, or else command | FIND "File(s)" to pipe through and reduce to only the individual directory footer lines (e.g. "101 File(s) 393,792,816 bytes", which you can use to spot possibly large groups of files in particular subdirs, but need to go hunting to find out which) and the final "totalising line" at the end that might say "320 File(s) 3,132,297,216 bytes" which is the cumulative count of everything matched (now filtered out). Obviously the command is your chosen DIR-form command. (Also, not so obviously, if any file(s) matches "File(s)" then they'll also pop up on the FIND-filtered list. Should be rate enough to not matter. But you could always use the "/L" (lowercase) tag, so that FIND won't match filename lines now with "file(s)", without adding the "/I" (ignore case) to that, of course. ;) )

The "/B" (bare format) for DIRectory listing doesn't give any filesize info, but usefully makes each line fully-qualified to path so a line-filtering FIND can extract all files that have the letters "xyz" in them, anything somewhere under (any) "\old\" directory listing or you can filter out (/V) things of no interest (bare command | FIND /V /I ".exe" | FIND /V /I ".od" | FIND /V /I ".bak" | FIND /I "budget" will take the bare (DIR /B ...) listing and strip it of any line looking like a .exe, all the open-document formats (.ods, .odt, etc), a .bak file (but also anything and everything under a directory with .bak extensio , which is not unknown) before then presenting all remaining lines that have "budget" (or "BUDGET" or "Budget", etc) in them. If you have a good idea what ought to be in a directory(-structure) or are content to selectively whittle away a long list as repeatedly generated in a command line, you can just keep piling on further piped FINDs to exclude/narrow down the list. I repeat, this doesn't help at all with size information (on a bare DIR listing) but may be of use tracking down things you think should (or shouldn't be) somewhere under a directory structure. e.g. finding that there's something under "...\username\Local Settings\Temporary Internet Files\Content.IEwhatever\alphanumeric spaghetti name\..." (or more current equivalent cache space, obviously) that stands out for some reason.

TL;DR - Open command line and start with DIR /AD \ to list all (even hidden) root directories. Then for each of them (dir1, dir2, ...) do something like DIR /A-B /S \dirX | FIND "File(s)" and take note of the final line. Then DIR /AD \dirX for any interestingly large ones and then DIR /A-L /S \dirX\subdirY | FIND "File(s)" and onwards like that.

Noting that you'll be initially delving into system folder structures that are going to be legitimately large anyway, and some bits of these aren't suitable for being ripped out for archival/deletion, so use your common sense, but further subordinate parts might indeed be cruft that you don't need to keep. Or restrict yourself to whatever the Documents And Settings folder is currently called (with special attention, when you see them, to Desktop, Favorites and possibly Address Book, as I've seen large files dragged-and-dropped into these locations by misclicks on various occasions, usually this then making the user think that the original file has vanished (not moved) from the original Documents area, but occasionally it can be copied).

Anyway, have a play with this, see if it even works (for you), but take it under advisement whether to move/delete the things that you find. Leaving alone System, System32, System64 and/or whatever under the WINDOWS (or WIN, WINNT, whatever), directory is probably advisable, unless you're solving a different issue, and know how to do it. But it doesn't hurt to look around. Then if you discover an "installSoftware.temp" type subfolder for something (that you know about, or otherwise) then you can start checking to see if the 4GB of files that the 3D compositting package left there is truly supposed to still be there after installation (or especially after deinstallation) or search for what might else have left such a mucky footprint on your system and whether you should be concerned about it. Knowledge is power. (Action can be dangerous, though, without additional knowledge to back it up. This is just a general point, however, and doesn't affect my core suggestion.)

(Edited for markup typos. Other grammatical/lexical typos definitely exist, but seems not to intrude into actual commands being quoted, so not spending time on such irrelevencies.)
« Last Edit: August 12, 2023, 08:08:50 am by Starver »
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Starver

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Re: The Generic Computer Advice Thread
« Reply #5107 on: August 12, 2023, 09:18:27 am »

Addendum: There are loads of graphical "disk usage" displaying utilities, I just wouldn't know which to suggest (and how/if they differentiate between true and virtual contents, as they drill down), but if you prefer something like a clickable/expanding pie-chart then there'll be something that you might be more comfortable with than my rather info-heavy commamd-line method. (Actually, last time I needed something this doing, on my own machine, I wrote myself a perl-script to do it. But I thought that was far more technical to explain, even though it was very useful and well worth the perhals half hour of debugging/rewriting to look nicer. ;)

Plus if you DIR /S dirX and "dirX" is something like "Documents and Settings" then you need to quote it, or it will (try to...) DIR "Documents", "and" and "Settings". Or, as part of a cascade of directories "...\Documents", ".\and" and ".\Settings\...". You can get away with DIR /flags "Documents and Settings with no closing quote if the spaced (or possibly other odd-charactered name) is last on the line, but any further bits (perhaps/probably? including attempts at piping/redirecting) invalidate that. But it's why I tend to do DIR /flags pattern rather than equally valid DIR pattern /flags, because it only needs the one character insertion when I realise I need to quote it. ;) Of course, you can quote (or quote-unnecessary mention) multiple patterns like maybe you have "Documents" and "Settings" and you want to check them both. Whoops, sorry. Going into advanced refinements of technique, there. Just thought, as I was sitting by this canal in the sunshine, about something else one could so easily trip up over if you tried to follow my original suggestion!
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lemon10

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Re: The Generic Computer Advice Thread
« Reply #5108 on: August 14, 2023, 03:42:24 pm »

I'm trying to figure out what things take up the most space on my hard drive, to prioritize moving them to another drive. I can't use Windows 10 storage menu in settings to view this, since it reports obviously incorrect values (such as 707GB for a small app on my 512GB drive.) How can I find out what takes up the most space? Ideally without installing another piece of software.
I heavily recommend spacesniffer.
Its free, quick, easy to use, and displays what takes up what space in a very clear way.
Its also portable so technically not installing another piece of software, but it seems so much simpler and better then the more technical way that I can't avoid recommending it.
(There are other programs that do the same thing of course, but spacesniffer is the best I've found).
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Re: The Generic Computer Advice Thread
« Reply #5109 on: August 16, 2023, 02:59:31 pm »

Not quite a computer issue, but back in April I bought a third-party(TOPAD brand) Joycon pair for my Switch, as the original pair had the horrible drift problem with the left stick. Up until now, they've worked fine. Now, the left controller has what I suspect to be a faulty battery. The controller keeps disconnecting every second or so for a short while after waking it up, and the controller setup screen shows its battery status blinking rapidly between dead and full. It doesn't work at all when undocked from the console, and even when docked it cannot run the firmware update.

I tested the old controllers, and besides the stick drift, they work fine. The contacts on both the console and controller are both clean. There's no reason to think it's a problem with power or data coming from the console, which is what is leading me to think it's the controller battery. Unfortunately, the Amazon page listing the controller no longer exists.

EDIT: Curious. I opened the controller. While the battery specifications(according to Wikipedia and other sources) for the Joycon battery state 3.7v, 525mAh, 1.9Wh, the battery I have in front of my shows 3.7v, 500mAh, 1.85Wh. Aside from seemingly being underpowered, the battery is physically a little too small to fit in the casing. Also looks nothing like the replacement batteries I'm seeing on various retailers' websites.
« Last Edit: August 16, 2023, 03:17:04 pm by Akura »
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Schmaven

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Re: The Generic Computer Advice Thread
« Reply #5110 on: August 16, 2023, 06:27:40 pm »

.
Curious. I opened the controller. While the battery specifications(according to Wikipedia and other sources) for the Joycon battery state 3.7v, 525mAh, 1.9Wh, the battery I have in front of my shows 3.7v, 500mAh, 1.85Wh. Aside from seemingly being underpowered, the battery is physically a little too small to fit in the casing. Also looks nothing like the replacement batteries I'm seeing on various retailers' websites.

500mAh and 1.85Wh are exactly equivalent measurements of battery capacity and have no bearing on the function of the device connected (aside from time between charging).  It is the voltage output, 3.7V that is of critical importance.  Since that matches between both your findings, there's no issue there.  Now the battery could be failing.  If it is replaceable, one with the exact same 3.7V output would work, and just about any capacity (measured in your choice of units), so long as it fits / has the same connection port.

{Watts are just volts multiplied by amps, so 3.7V × 0.5Ah(500mAh) = 1.85Wh}

Edit: If you have access to the circuit board, there could be a cracked soldering joint somewhere that would be fixable.  I had a laptop battery connection issue that was solved with just a drop of additional solder in the right spot.
« Last Edit: August 16, 2023, 06:31:48 pm by Schmaven »
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wierd

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Re: The Generic Computer Advice Thread
« Reply #5111 on: August 17, 2023, 11:55:49 pm »

In addition to cell voltage, there is also cell resistance which is an indicator of cell health.

If the cell's internal resistance goes above a certain threshold, it will be disabled by the charging controller, to prevent explosions/fires.
https://www.dnkpower.com/all-things-you-need-to-know-about-internal-resistance-of-lithium-battery/

This sounds like the charge controller is having a hard time determining the health of the cell. It could be a resistance issue.  Verify that all the leads to the battery are well connected, and that no solder joins have become cracked/loose, and that any cables are free of shorts or defects.
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dragdeler

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Re: The Generic Computer Advice Thread
« Reply #5112 on: August 18, 2023, 07:13:49 am »

Not computer but still related:

Will a long cable or materials that are less optimal as copper, such as brass or nickel, increase the IR of a battery noticeably? Or is the electroconductivity negligeable at these scales? Would it suffice to just take a bigger conductor... And could it be that electric contact resistance is not negligeable EVEN if the conductor is negligeable as compared to the batteries' internal resistance?
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Schmaven

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Re: The Generic Computer Advice Thread
« Reply #5113 on: August 18, 2023, 05:30:28 pm »

Not computer but still related:

Will a long cable or materials that are less optimal as copper, such as brass or nickel, increase the IR of a battery noticeably? Or is the electroconductivity negligeable at these scales? Would it suffice to just take a bigger conductor... And could it be that electric contact resistance is not negligeable EVEN if the conductor is negligeable as compared to the batteries' internal resistance?

Batteries only supply the voltage based on E(or V)=IR, so by increasing the cable length, or substituting a suboptimal wire material, you are merely increasing the R value.  To maintain the same current (I), you would have an increased voltage.  However, with a battery, the result would instead be less current output as the voltage value is fixed.

Edit:  Multimeters can be found for $15, so you could measure the precise resistance difference, but nickel and brass have about 4 times the resistance as copper, so all else being equal, expect about ¼ of the current output from the battery.  Since Power is voltage × current, that means ¼ the power.

Larger diameter cables would be able to negate the increased resistance.  But current passes on the surface of wires, and many cables are stranded, so it would be easier to measure the resistance of what you have rather than try to calculate it.  Also, parallel runs of wire would work just as well for reducing overall system resistance.
« Last Edit: August 18, 2023, 05:38:20 pm by Schmaven »
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Akura

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Re: The Generic Computer Advice Thread
« Reply #5114 on: August 22, 2023, 04:03:54 pm »

Ended up stripping one of the screws to the controller, so I can't even open it up to check what repair I need to do or even if I can make the repair or not. That's not quite true, I can partially open it up around the docking connector, and see as far as the battery connections, but I don't see anything particularly out of place from the limited view I have. It's not impossible to drill through the bad screw, but I don't know how I'd keep the controller casing from coming apart at that corner which is next to the release button - and it is a limited edition controller skin.
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