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[Starver]

Very obvious first thought is that the Enter key is actually physically broken/not working. Which you can't test in any other easy way without having made the connection already, it looks like (no alternate direct cable connection possible, I see from scanning the product page - and Logitech's site is horribly slow-loading/configured for appearance over any usefulness, IMO).

Assuming new? Assuming never ever worked? Pursue a Return+refund/Replacement maybe. Or at least the vendor may already be aware of many such prior enquiries towards that end and either understand there's a broken batch or know the very simple solution/point you at the driver update that I failed to find any evidence of.


I'm afraid my direct experience of bluetooth/wireless keyboards is limited to one that did not require actual PIN identification (sounds sensible enough an idea, above mere temporal authority) and several that were pre-tied to their own USB dongles (whatever the actual protocol used was) but that promised two-year battery life sounds good compared to what my replacement schedule has been.

[Uthimienure]

An old XP computer I've had for old games has an error on the IDE hard drive and it won't boot.
I want to scan the drive and see if it will fix it (happened before with success) and recover the data.
Tried hooking up the drive using an IDE to SATA adapter & SATA power cable to 2 other PCs, one XP and one Win10.
Neither would recognize that a drive was present.
Tried the Device Manager, no luck.
So I tried the same with the bad PC's second drive, which is known to work. Not recognized.
Not sure what I'm missing.

[LordBaal]

I have some bad news for you...

[Lord Shonus]

Make sure that the drives are configured as "Master" instead of "Slave", "Master w/Slave Present", or "Cable Select". I've had that issue with SATA to IDE adapters before.

[LordBaal]

My overly pessimistic opinion is your motherboard shorted and took that drive with it, maybe the powersupply is faulty, would start checking that.

If is not that, then yes, fiddle around with the jumpers, put them on master or auto. Also if possible check if the ide cable is good, actually start with that.

[Lord Shonus]

If you are using an IDE cable (many but not all SATA-IDE adaptors are direct to the drive) check the number of wires. If your cable has 80 wires, try one with 40. If it has 40, try 80.

[Uthimienure]

Thanks for the ideas, all.

It's not the power supply. The computer begins to boot, then hangs at a particular point (same every time). When this exact thing happened to the same HD in the same computer a few years back, I was able to boot using a Linux Puppy CD and then scan the drive & fix it.  This time, the drive wouldn't show up in Puppy, which is weird because it's hanging exactly like it did last time, to my memory.

So I tried what I described above, since in the meantime I got the Win10 box. I've tried two IDE to SATA adapters in case one was bad, both plug directly into the IDE drive and use a jumper power cable. A separate SATA power cable goes from it to the motherboard, got 2 of those also.

The master/slave ideas I should try (this is by fiddling with jumpers) and I'll look into it.  Thanks again.

[wierd]

When you power on the drive, listen to it carefully.

Does it properly spin up?

Does it make repeating clicking sounds?

[Uthimienure]

When you power on the drive, listen to it carefully.

Does it properly spin up?

Does it make repeating clicking sounds?

Do I check this with the drive put back into the original computer, or with the adapter in the new PC?

[wierd]

Either will do.

[Uthimienure]

It spun up, made a few quiet clicks, then continued spinning nicely with no more clicks.

edit:  Tried it with the jumper in all 5 positions. Scanned for new hardware with device mgr. Nothing.

[King Zultan]

Would getting an OS repair disks help in this situation, I had to use one awhile back when a hard drive doing stuff like what Uthimienure described and apparently it was because the disc was dying and because it ate the Master Boot Record.

Also once you get the hard drive running again you should backup all the stuff on it in case it's dying.

[wierd]

There is a very good chance it is already dead.

What hard disk model is it exactly? (the numbers on the top of the drive)  I can look to see I can get specific info on it.

[LordBaal]

If there are no repetitive or odd clicking sounds there is a sliver of hope. Maybe the platters, the disk itself, the writing arm and all the data are fine but the controller board is the one fried (the green or blue electronic thingy on the bottom part of the drive). If that is the case you migth be able to raise it from the grave by replacing that piece, but you will need to replace it with exactly the same model, i.e. from another drive exactly (same brand, capacity, rpm, model...) of the one that died.

Do not, under any condition open up the drive itself.

[Uthimienure]

FWIW, here's the item:

Spoiler (click to show/hide)