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[Iduno]

I have a Windows 10 desktop PC with two displays, something has been up with my primary monitor and I'm really getting sick of it.

In Event 1 it will turn black but only for a second, then it comes back, this happens 5 or 10 times then it chills out and stops, then usually it won't happen again for the rest of the day. It could happen at any time, fiddling with the display and power cables during it doesn't help, and I can never get it to occur by fiddling with the cables aggressively, so I suspect my GPU.

Sometimes Event 1 is followed immediately by Event 2 (but sometimes this happens randomly), where my primary display turns solid green. I can still move windows back and forth (mouse isn't visible though) so it's not a connection problem which again makes me think GPU and not my cables. If I unplug either of my monitors' display cables and plug it back in it instantly fixes it and it's like nothing happened.

Just yesterday the primary display went to white noise which kind of freaked me out because that's the first time that ever happened, I fixed it the same way I fixed Event 2 though. Drivers are up to date. What should I do?

Sounds a lot like when my second monitor/TV started turning off and on when I turned it on. It's not great for it. Do you have a different connection type you can use (composite or DVI instead of HDMI for example)? It may or may not help (I'm not an electrical engineer), but it may. Worst case, it's unplugging and plugging back in which can help.

[Il Palazzo]

Alright, how do I connect my android phone to my win10 pc? I need to copy some files.

All the helpdesk entries I've read tell me there should be a notification when I plug in the usb cable, that needs to be clicked in order to change from charging to file transfer (or some such). But there ain't any. The PC file manager doesn't see the phone. I've tried bluetooth, but I only managed to get it to 'paired' but not 'connected'.
I've just updated the OS to the latest version, but it didn't seem to have helped.

What am I supposed to be doing here? I vaguely remember that it used to work like a regular usb storage when I connected the phone, but it ain't so no more.

[wierd]

Some phones are just stupid, and dont give you the option to change the USB gadget mode.

Because the carriers are fucking tools.


Go to settings, and click on "build number" 7 times in a row.  This will enable developer mode options.


Enter developer mode options, and under USB mode, select MTP.

Connect the USB cable.

Profit.

Spoiler: More Full explanation (click to show/hide)

Since android 5 that I know of, android phones no longer present the internal storage and sdcard slots as USB mass storage class, because that requires the phone to unmount both of those, and more recent versions of the OS cannot tolerate that.

Instead, it usually has 4 modes the user can pick from.

Charge Only
Picture Transfer Protocol (compatible with Windows Image Acquisition (WIA) compliant software)
Media Transfer Protocol, which works more or less like mass storage did once windows installs a suitable MTP device driver for your phone
"Installer" (which presents a fake CDRom drive with drivers for windows machines to install said drivers...)

Again, some carriers are fucking idiots, and dont give the user an easy way to select which mode.

Because they are fucking tools.

However, you can override their stupid cockness by enabling developer mode, and fucking setting it to what you damned well want it to be, along with (most of the time anyway) some additional options, like "USB cellular modem", and a few others.

[Il Palazzo]

A valiant effort, for which I'm grateful. Still doesn't work, though. Windows doesn't see the damn thing. I tried MTP and PTP, I tried what's described as 'USB debugging' since its description looked promising. Still no sign of the device in file manager.

[wierd]

when connected, windows should do the add new hardware thing and look for drivers.

You may need to install a driver package for your phone;  I did for my LG.

[Il Palazzo]

I also have an LG. Nothing worked. I updated all the shit I could update, I even tried all the crappy, crash-prone LG software (PC suite, LG bridge) and not even that could detect my phone - be it over USB, local Wi-Fi or bluetooth.
I ended up using google drive to preserve my fraying sanity.

[The Scout]

Got a Sabrent external harddrive. Plugged into my USB 3.0 port, shows up in device manager and the blue light stays on. Inserting a drive immediately makes it disconnect and the light starts to flash. Running Windows 7. Tried moving it between the USB 2.0 and 3.0 with no difference.
Edit: Trying with 3 different HDDs, two of which I know aren't broke.

[RoguelikeRazuka]

Hello. Currently I have 2 x 4GB ram modules installed in my pc, working in dual channel mode (both were bought as a kit). But I want to make a small upgrade and add another 8GB but as a single module (same manufacturer, same speed, same latency). My motherboard is Asus Z170 Pro Gaming, the two 4gb ram modules are Corsair Vengeance LPX CMK8GX4M2A2400C14, the one I'm going to buy is Corsair Vengeance LPX CMK8GX4M1A2400C14. So what if I put those two 4gb ram modules in one channel (channel A, slots A1 and A2 on my mother board) and the new 8gb module in the other channel (Channel B, slot B1)? Will they work in dual channel mode using this setup? The manual for my motherboard states the following:

You may install varying memory sizes in Channel A and Channel B. The system maps the total size of the lower-sized for the dual-channel configuration. Any excess memory from the higher-sized channel is the mapped for single-channel configuration.

But my configuration is going to be 4 + 4 gb for channel A and 8 gb for channel B (hence equal sizes in each channel), so the above statement does not apply, correct?

[Lord Shonus]

I'm pretty sure that you'll be dual-channeling the lower half of the 8GB stick with one 4GB, and then having two single-channel 4GB  selections.


You'd probably get better performance by getting two more 4GB sticks. That should run everything in dual channel, and be faster. You'd only pay about 10 bucks more from Newegg, if you're in the US.

[wierd]

Got a Sabrent external harddrive. Plugged into my USB 3.0 port, shows up in device manager and the blue light stays on. Inserting a drive immediately makes it disconnect and the light starts to flash. Running Windows 7. Tried moving it between the USB 2.0 and 3.0 with no difference.
Edit: Trying with 3 different HDDs, two of which I know aren't broke.

Are these full sized HDDs?

Could be an issue with the port not supplying sufficient power for the drive(s).   I have that problem with several of my SATA<->USB adapters I have laying around. (Have to use an externally powered adapter usually.)

The USB specification only allows 500mA for unidentified/registered (on stack) devices, and only 2A for ones that are. If the drive needs more than that to spin up, you need a powered enclosure.

[wierd]

I'm pretty sure that you'll be dual-channeling the lower half of the 8GB stick with one 4GB, and then having two single-channel 4GB  selections.


You'd probably get better performance by getting two more 4GB sticks. That should run everything in dual channel, and be faster. You'd only pay about 10 bucks more from Newegg, if you're in the US.

I really dont think that's how that works...

A multi-channel memory configuration makes use of multiple physical data busses on the memory controller, so that the memory controller can get data in and out of the ram sticks faster.  A single module can only live in a single bus.  To use multiple busses, you have to have multiple modules.

A single module will only ever work in single channel mode, because it can only live in one bus.

[Lord Shonus]

I don't fully understand it either. I'm just going off of what my motherboard manual says.

[The Scout]

It's externally powered, so hopefully that's not the problem. Am now getting an I/O error for the docking port itself but have no clue what's causing that.

[Iduno]

Got a Sabrent external harddrive. Plugged into my USB 3.0 port, shows up in device manager and the blue light stays on. Inserting a drive immediately makes it disconnect and the light starts to flash. Running Windows 7. Tried moving it between the USB 2.0 and 3.0 with no difference.
Edit: Trying with 3 different HDDs, two of which I know aren't broke.

Is it a powered USB slot? Sometimes things prefer one or the other, for reasons other than needing power or not. I cannot elaborate on these reasons, but I've seen it happen enough that they must exist.

[pikachu17]

I need a web hosting site quick for school, and not for very long.