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[Tellemurius]

you can still carry over the 7750 (yea you will have to look for another one), but really you do need a new box in the end. Core 2s are at the end of their lives, to me they are still good but its the future and my i3 can do alot more than your processor.

[MadMalkavian]

you can still carry over the 7750 (yea you will have to look for another one), but really you do need a new box in the end. Core 2s are at the end of their lives, to me they are still good but its the future and my i3 can do alot more than your processor.

Well fuck that. I had to save up for six years just to get this computer I have right now. I'm not getting another one until this one starts to break. I have to live within my means after all, and seeing as I've lived in poverty all of my life I might as well have outdated equipment. I don't want to talk about this any more as I'm starting to get very negative thoughts about it that if I utter will get me banned. Just know that I can't get a new machine anytime soon because unlike the bourgeois that seem to populate Western civilization I have to live within my means.

[Tellemurius]

Windows 8.1 seems to be having more quirks even than 8. Some of my company's software had to be run in compatible mode to guess what: windows 8 :I ........ gee thanks microsoft.

[MadMalkavian]

Windows 8.1 seems to be having more quirks even than 8. Some of my company's software had to be run in compatible mode to guess what: windows 8 :I ........ gee thanks microsoft.

Yeah, I still wish I was using Windows XP, but I had to switch to Windows 7 with this computer I have right now. If I ever have to switch to Windows 8 after trying to figure out how to help my friend with his problematic laptop I may just go into console gaming.

[Caz]

Sounds like a rather bourgeois frivolity, unless if you're talking about external harddrives. You essentially mean a very fancy USB stick right?

Lol wut. As much as any good PC component is, I guess.

Thousand times yes, 12 second bootup from Windows 7? can't say no to that. At most 128gb is a good buy and just dedicate it for your OS.

This was pretty much the plan. I wanted to get one to put the system and mostly-used files on, but I heard there were problems with the limited write cycles etc. That was a couple years ago, though. Now they're a bit cheaper and easier to get into, I might have to get one for Christmas.

[Tellemurius]

they will die by the same rate as hard drives nowadays so its nothing new really (also all by now have built in features to prolong lifetime so nothing you got to worry), the only thing difference is the constant new iterations each year.

[Caz]

they will die by the same rate as hard drives nowadays so its nothing new really (also all by now have built in features to prolong lifetime so nothing you got to worry), the only thing difference is the constant new iterations each year.

Cool, it's definitely time for an upgrade then. Thanks.

[Alastar]

Depends to some extent on OS and willingness to tinker.

Windows is much smoother and more responsive with an SSD, boot times are also much improved (moderately if you cheat: Windows 8 closes applications, then hibernates when it claims to shut down).
Responsiveness is the big deal to me, much more powerful computers than my little ultrabook feel annoyingly jerky to me. This CAN be fixed to some extent via settings, but involves things Windows isn't really designed for.

My ageing desktop is even smoother though, and boots in ~10s anyway... despite using an old-fashioned 10,000rpm hard drive. Arch Linux, non-standard i/o scheduler optimised for desktop responsiveness, dynamically compressing everything on the hard drive, putting performance-critical stuff in RAM.  (so disk performance becomes less of a bottleneck, at the expense of some additional CPU/RAM use... still frugal compared to Windows or OSX).

*

Short version: You don't need a SSD. But it's the easiest way to get a buttery smooth user experience, recommended if you're picky and don't like to tinker.

[MaximumZero]

Dumb question because I've forgotten how: if I were to hypothetically get an ssd, how would I make it my master drive? Just plug it into sata 0 and install windows?

[Owlbread]

If I recall correctly made my SSD my master drive by installing windows onto it and plugging it into SATA 0.

[Il Palazzo]

Hey guys, I need a bit of a helping hand. I've been following this guide(http://www.tested.com/tech/298-how-to-use-an-old-router-to-expand-your-wi-fi-network/) to extend the range of wifi provided by my landlord.
I think I'm getting there, but I'm stuck on this instruction:

Give your access point a private IP
Once you've disabled DHCP, you can reconfigure the LAN interface to use a private local IP address that won't conflict with the router. It's a good idea to do this so that you can easily log back into the AP later to adjust settings. To find out what the reserved range is for your new router, you should go to another computer and visit its configuration screen. Typically Linksys and D-Link routers use a range of 192.168.0.2 to 192.168.0.99 for the reserved IP addresses. It is very important that the address you choose for your AP is outside the range that your new router assigns to DHCP clients. It's worth logging into the new router to check; if you get the IP wrong, it will make your network very unreliable. You'll also need to fill in a few other settings to tell your new AP how it can connect to the Internet at large--namely DNS server, default gateway, and subnet mask. If it's required, you can use your ISP's DNS servers, or simply point the AP toward 8.8.8.8, which is Google's DNS server. Your default gateway should be the new router's IP address--typically 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1. Subnet mask is typically 255.255.255.0.

I just can't make sense of the text. Where do I set that private IP? On the same screen where I disable DHCP? How does it make it easier to log back to the access point? Why do I need to use another computer?
If anyone can at least paraphrase the instructions in even more layman's language than that, I'd be grateful. This is the first time I have anything to do with configuring a router, so forgive me for being dense.

[Owlbread]

I don't mean to bury Il Palazzo's post by posting this, but maybe PM me if you have an answer. I need to buy a decent, lightweight laptop, ideally with a very long battery life (such as 6 or 7 hours plus), an SSD and ideally no touch screen or annoying bells and whistles like that. This will be a work laptop, nothing more i.e. mostly just word processing, no 3D modeling or stuff like that. At the moment all I can really see is something like a Macbook Air but I don't really like the OS. I don't consider myself a brand racist, rather I feel that I am quite open minded, but... that OS really didn't accord with me.

To be honest I really want to just build a laptop but I'm stuck in the old computer-brand world as things are at the moment.

[Aklyon]

Not to say its an odd choice, but why an ssd for a work laptop? That seems like its making it harder to find than it needs to be.

For customizing/building a laptop, I remember dell having that as a possibility for some specific laptops a few years ago, not sure if it still happens.

[jaass]

^ I wouldn't recommend building laptops unless you have very good cable management skills and also bear in mind that a lot of laptop parts are proprietary.

[Owlbread]

I would hugely prefer a small SSD to a 500gb HDD. The SSD is just more efficient, I wouldn't want something like an HDD clunking around in there.