Is Dominions that good? I mean, I can see that it's old and ugly, that's pretty much par for the course for really complex games. How does it compare to... say, Master of Magic? Civilization? What makes it good?
Skim around
the thread, check any of the (well over a dozen, now) B12 games in play with your buddies for AARs or diplomacy, discussions, etc., check one of the LPs for dominions 3 (like
this one), of which Dom 4 is pretty much a straight upgrade, just... look around. Dominions in general is a lot like the Dwarf Fortress of fantasy turn-based strategy, albeit, perhaps, more accessible. There's whole bucketfulls of reasons why Dominions is something of a cult classic and generally acknowledged as one of the absolute best entries in the overall strategy genre.
I can't really find the words for it at the moment, but the dominions series in general, of which 4 is definitely the best (at the moment), is quite possibly the fantasy turn-based strategy game with the absolute greatest strategic depth currently on the market. It provides for both grand strategy and vicious tactical combat in a way basically nothing else does. It's bloody close to unique, oozes with flavor, and is just... just wonderful. MoM, Civ... they're games on a different level -- more localized, less epic. Not necessarily
worse, but they're something like the Company of Heroes to Dominions' Hearts of Iron.
What makes it good is the variety of options, the thematic flares, the brutal combat, and the incredible amount of sheer dickery that can be done by any player involved in a game. Even in single-player you can experience absolutely epic moments that few to no other games can provide, and in multiplayer things get kicked up to 11 when you're dealing with another half-dozen (or more) people exploiting everything they can to make everyone's day absolutely miserable in the most amazingly engaging ways possible.
It's not for everyone -- the games tend towards fairly slow, especially in multiplayer, and the amount of micromanagement involved is a well known hurdle, especially in late game where even single mistakes can cause whole fronts to collapse (though it's marginally better in D4) -- but if you like grand strategy and fantasy games, it's something you want to check out.
Also, you can get the dominions 3 demo off
this page. D3 is definitely a downgrade from D4, but it's close enough you can get a good feel of what you're getting into.