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Author Topic: World of Tanks: F2P MMOFPS with tanks - Join in-game "Bay 12 Games" channel!  (Read 210834 times)

Rex_Nex

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Some Lee tips:

Dont play around on hills, your gun is only halfway up the height of your hull. By the time your gun is over a hill, they have probably put one or two shots into you.

Don't mess with tier 5/6 heavies unless you know what you're doing. T1 Heavies and KV-1s are a huge pain in the ass for a Lee to pen without APCR. BDRs and 3001H's are a bit easier, but will still beat you in a fair fight just because of how much HP they have compared to you.

Don't put yourself in a position where you might not see the people firing at you! The Lee has very bad view range and bad camouflage. Most other tanks can easily spot it and not light until they start firing. Some tanks can even spot and kill you without ever lighting up!

Some basic tips:

Don't skimp out on the consumables. The don't cost much, and if they win you a game you'll get more credits for the win than you spent on the consumable. A basic repair kit, med kit, and fire extinguisher will put you ahead of other new players!

You'll want to get in the habit of putting down a little investment into some APCR shells for your tanks. Right now it's not a necessity because you're not going to make much money in T4 to cover the costs, but once you get comfortable in t5+ tanks, bring a handful of APCR for emergencies.

Don't use HE! It almost always is worse than AP unless you're using a howitzer (such as the 105mm cannon on the Sherman). The only time I'd recommend it is at the end of a match when you're just chasing down arty - usually you can pen their flimsy armor for massive damage even with small-caliber guns like the Lee's.

Having a good crew is important, and you can move crews between tanks of the same class if you pay credits (20k per crewmember) to retrain them. If you get a 100% skilled crew, make sure you keep them and put them on the next vehicle after finishing the previous! The difference between a 50% crew and 100% crew is a 25% bonus to all statistics.

Stay away from tier 4 or higher light tanks. They all either suck or are stupidly hard to play well.

Stay away from french tanks until you're ready to weather some of the worst t1-4 tanks in the game!

Stay away from Japanese tanks, there are no good ones until tier 8.

Heavy tanks and tank destroyers are good!
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Sonlirain

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I would argue about HE. While it usually does scratch damage at most it also ignores angled armor so a heavily angled wedged in HT with a sliver of HP left can be reliably taken out by HE.
of course the gun must have a reasonable caliber for that but i'd always carry several of those.

Also i liked my low tier french tanks... maybe with the exeption of B1.

The Luchs is fun tank if you know how to scout and the high pen autocannon works well against just about any tier tank it meets.
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Rilder

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Stay away from Japanese tanks, there are no good ones until tier 8.

WHAT!?!?!?

I'lll agree with you on the tier 5-7 tanks but the low tiers are rather excellent, The Chi-ha is one of the funnest tier 3s in the game in my opinion. (In tier 3-4 matches the hull down ability of it allows it to just dominate, hell its gun even is capable enough to work in tier 5 matches) and the Ke-Ho, thanks to not getting Scout MM is pretty much the only tier 4 light in the game that can be considered enjoyable. (And man did I have fun with it)
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Kaitol

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Light tanks are not hard to play well. You simply have to play them differently. They're scouts and should be played as such. Sneak around and spot enemy movements and do your damnedest not to be seen.

Then you watch your map like a hawk and look for an opening that you can exploit to flank them or get at their inner tasty artillery and camping TD's looking the other direction. And then you feast on their entrails and bask in the lamentations of their women.
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Rex_Nex

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Light tanks are not hard to play well. You simply have to play them differently. They're scouts and should be played as such. Sneak around and spot enemy movements and do your damnedest not to be seen.

Then you watch your map like a hawk and look for an opening that you can exploit to flank them or get at their inner tasty artillery and camping TD's looking the other direction. And then you feast on their entrails and bask in the lamentations of their women.

Lights are very tough, and what's even worse is that you need camo, sixth sense, and optics (at least 2/3 of these) to do well. A new player is going to flounder hard in a light tank. I'd even argue that most new players do practically nothing ever in the vast majority of their light tank matches.

I would argue about HE. While it usually does scratch damage at most it also ignores angled armor so a heavily angled wedged in HT with a sliver of HP left can be reliably taken out by HE.
of course the gun must have a reasonable caliber for that but i'd always carry several of those.

Most of the tanks with that kind of armor are high tier ones, and even then you can't be sure that the HE will actually do damage. Unless you've got a 128mm+ cannon, I wouldn't be firing at, say, an E-75's front plate and hope to do more than double-digit damage.

Still, yes, there's situations where HE can be sort of useful, but 1. you can be wildly successful never using an HE round in your life and 2. a new player trying to decide when to swap to HE and when not to is going to perform worse than if he just went ahead and forgot the ammo even existed. Only when you've mastered basic game mechanics would I suggest dynamically swapping to HE.

Stay away from Japanese tanks, there are no good ones until tier 8.

WHAT!?!?!?

I'lll agree with you on the tier 5-7 tanks but the low tiers are rather excellent, The Chi-ha is one of the funnest tier 3s in the game in my opinion. (In tier 3-4 matches the hull down ability of it allows it to just dominate, hell its gun even is capable enough to work in tier 5 matches) and the Ke-Ho, thanks to not getting Scout MM is pretty much the only tier 4 light in the game that can be considered enjoyable. (And man did I have fun with it)

Wasn't aware of that, don't really play anything below T5. All I know is that the 5-7 are bad/mediocre and 8-10 don't really have any tanks worth going through the 5-7. Since that's going to account for 90% of your playtime I'd suggest ignoring the lines exist, but if the 1-4 are neat then I guess nabbing one he's interested in wouldn't hurt. Just don't invest too much into going up the tree.
« Last Edit: May 18, 2014, 03:03:57 pm by Rex_Nex »
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Graknorke

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spot enemy movements and do your damnedest not to be seen
Those two things conflict pretty hard. Since being in line of sight goes both ways.
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TheDarkStar

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You can actually avoid being seen as a light in the correct tier range. However, passive scouting is not for every light tank, and tier 10s tend to have view ranges better than scouts. My scout playing usually involves playing like a really light medium - I can flank really well and do decent damage (more than 2k at tier 6/7 in some games), along with being able to track and spot when necessary. It's also really easy to pop out, shoot several times, and then retreat as the enemy tank turns towards you and away from your other ally. Of course, this usually requires some teamwork, so it's still possible to die horribly.
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Rilder

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I'm kinda starting to doubt the badness of the mid tier Japanese mediums after a match a bit ago where I managed to get second most damage in a tier eight match with the Chi-To. Definitely a rather hard to use tank either way, however.
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Rex_Nex

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The Chi-To is probably the best of the T5-7 tanks because it's the only one with legitimate advantages (the DPM, gun handling, and exposure time are all commendable) with considerable firepower. Still, it's no better than your average T6 medium.

You can actually avoid being seen as a light in the correct tier range. However, passive scouting is not for every light tank, and tier 10s tend to have view ranges better than scouts. My scout playing usually involves playing like a really light medium - I can flank really well and do decent damage (more than 2k at tier 6/7 in some games), along with being able to track and spot when necessary. It's also really easy to pop out, shoot several times, and then retreat as the enemy tank turns towards you and away from your other ally. Of course, this usually requires some teamwork, so it's still possible to die horribly.

None of that sounds like something a new player could do.
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Jopax

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I still don't see why people call the Nu and the To bad. The Ri requires some (well a lot to be honest) work to be an asset to the team, but when it does work it works wonderfully, if you land your three shots that pretty much equals a single punt from a 122mm gun, and with a total 12 seconds that are needed to reload and deliver the full burst this thing can be quite scary if it gets into a proper place.

And again, the Nu is amazing as far as the gun goes, I'd even liken it to the old Pz4 when it had the Schmalturm, except you're mobile and don't have a bunker for a turret. The To on the other hand is mostly a copy of the 3002M, trading some armor for better soft stats, depression especially.

And semininjaed.
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Rex_Nex

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The problem with the nu is that it has horrible DPM. The firepower just isn't enough for such a fast-paced tier, you'll spend too long trying to drop people. Granted, I played in the Chi-Nu Kai and not the Chi-Nu, but considering the only difference between the two is that the Kai is slow with a thick turret, I don't imagine it would of been much different.

The Chi-Ri has major problems. IF you hit and pen with all three shots, the gun is almost as good as the IS's. This would be pretty good on any of the other t7 mediums, but as it is the Chi-Ri is more of a heavy than anything else. It's pretty slow - again, the IS is probably an apt comparison. It's gigantic, has no armor anywhere, and with some pretty serious penetratrion problems (186 pen with premium ammo doesn't really cut it against T9s!). On top of that, if you do end up delving into your premium ammo, the Chi-Ri can absolutely destroy your wallet. I've lost nearly 100k in a game because I couldn't pen something as thin as the T-44 without gold! Not too fun.
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Jopax

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I wouldn't call it that bad honestly. You need some 12-13 seconds to drop an average T5 tank, provided you have the first shot loaded and you make them all count, which shouldn't be too hard considering how good the penetration and accuracy are.

Sure, you don't have the stupidly high DPM of the T-34 (which is compensated by very low per-shot damage) or the derpiness of the M4 and Pz4, but those are more the outliers of your average T5 tank.
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Rex_Nex

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Well, the average at T5 is 1733 DPM, the Chi-Nu has 1564. The only t5 med that I can think of with the same issue is the Pz III/IV, which is horribly undergunned with bad pen, alpha, accuracy, and dpm. Poor thing could probably use a buff.
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TheDarkStar

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You can actually avoid being seen as a light in the correct tier range. However, passive scouting is not for every light tank, and tier 10s tend to have view ranges better than scouts. My scout playing usually involves playing like a really light medium - I can flank really well and do decent damage (more than 2k at tier 6/7 in some games), along with being able to track and spot when necessary. It's also really easy to pop out, shoot several times, and then retreat as the enemy tank turns towards you and away from your other ally. Of course, this usually requires some teamwork, so it's still possible to die horribly.

None of that sounds like something a new player could do.

That depends on what the new player starts with. I admit that I wasn't quite as good with my M5 Stuart (the first real scout I played), but I ended up learning the scout playstyle early on. On the other hand, I was really bad at most things with heavies for a long time.
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Don't die; it's bad for your health!

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SquatchHammer

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WoT's is more about skill than anything else these days. Yes, having a horrible tank is a huge crippler in your effectiveness in operation of that tank. Also, having a weak play style in a type of tank is a huge factor too, I.E. if you're horrible at lights because you are a heavy driver vs light.

I wont say the crew has very little impact, because they REALLY DO have an immense impact. I hate it when I jump from a 100%+ crew down to a 70% ,or gods help me, a 50% crew. I see the huge impact of shots doing any thing to driving capability to being able to ping shots off my armor.

I think you guys are over mathing the game by the way your posts look. I would like to do some platooning with some of you since I lurk on this thread a lot but really dont answer. In the game, I drive more the grip in my pants (yes I know it is supposed to be by the seat of my pants but it feels like more of a grip) and the way the battle on the mini map is moving; I really only go by numbers when something feels off. Like a tank cant possibly pen me at all or its going faster than it could possibly achieve.
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