The longer one is my carcasse saw, as in a furniture carcasse, the framed out part you put drawers and doors on, used that to cut the board down to size quickly, 11 teeth per inch means it's like a lightsaber when used right. It does leave a bit of roughed up material inside the kerfs (the slot where the saw removed material which is called swarf btw) so I hit it with the plane a couple of times but the knotty portions make it prone to tearout (the ripped up bits of missing wood) so I stopped after it was squared off.
Then I grabbed my marking tool (always forget a picture of it, just a 13 mm long piece of nearly square wood stuck through a rectangular mortice in a bit of scrap with one side slightly too small so the tool can be locked in position, and a bit of metal with a sharp corner screwed onto the end, kinda looks like the lid of the box with a longer piece through a smaller lid actually) and set it so the point of the tool was just far enough out to hang over the flat side of the boards, then marked out several 3.5 mm long shoulders on the tail pieces after clamping them together. Slid the marker up to 3 mm and marked the ends, then put a knife across both marks and scribed a diagonal before cutting them out with the little dovetail saw. At 18 teeth per inch it is nowhere near as quick as the carcasse saw but it leaves a damn near polished surface and a tiny little kerf for exact jointing.
Lather, rinse, repeat, use them to mark the pins, cut the sides of those, coping saw and chisel to remove the waste, notice it is too loose because I fucked up a cut on a set of pins, mark out and cut tails into the bottom piece, pins in the bottom edges of the longer sides, then pop it all together so the bottom pulls the sides in against the ends which holds the whole thing tight!.