I've made SOME progress, if you want to call it that.
Trying the throne, got jack squat.
Becoming desperate for an Altar, I took a cockatrice corpse and stoned the minetown priest, accepted the penalties for murder, and just converted that one.
Finally, I have some holy water! I bless my tinning kit, touchstone, luckstone, and my scrolls of identify. Using those scrolls, I manage to ID some of my other scrolls, and I find I have charging, destroy armor, and enchant armor, three great scrolls to have ID'd. Then I bless and read a book, so now I'll have on demand confusion in 20,000 turns.
I also found some speed boots, water walking boots, and gauntlets of dexterity.
I'm thinking that my wishlist will be something like:
Magicbane
Orb of detection (MR, telepathy, half spell damage, and invisibility, but I'm torn as to whether I should get the sceptre instead)
2 cursed scrolls of genocide (Both ID's genocide AND can be used to get scales, provided I don't get it from the gauranteed dragons first, then I'll get these blessed instead)
cursed magic marker (confused cursed destroy armor is the most cost effective method of fooproofing my armor, not to mention the benefits of cursed genocide)
blessed magic marker (it's always great to have another!)
?hawaiian shirt? (having a complete set of armor is nice, but I may want to hold out in case the need for something else arises...)
?wand of death? (Fighting the quest nemesis mano a mano is certain death, since he has the tsurugi of muramasa, which can dole out one hit kills, so if I don't have a method of OHKO'ing him by the end of the quest, then this may certainly be on my list)
?astral cockatrice corpse? (I'm hooked!!!)