It clears away the thousands and thousands of fallen leaves/fruits on the ground.
This. Your FPS should also be noticeably lower when you're looking at the outside ground level, where the stuff is 5-6 layers deep. The reason for that is that DF literally uses too much memory looking through all those piles of carp while it determines what tiles to draw on your screen every frame, and it's limited by the speed of your RAM. I may have said that slightly incorrectly (it's been a while), but see the thread in my sig. You can increase FPS in a wooded area by moving your fort underground and never looking at the surface unless you're ok with compromising FPS. Or by paving the entire landscape and cutting down all trees. Either way.
Somewhat of a fix for that, one of the best that I've found: Change your G_FPS_CAP to something much lower than it is right now. You might be surprised how much it helps and how little it impacts your game. (Again, see the link in my sig.) You can also make the game window smaller. If RAM speed is your limiting factor, taking some of the stress off of it by doing those two things can really help. Also related is multi-level rendering. Turn it off. TWBT is pretty, but a complete FPS-killer.
The other thing you can do is embark 3x3 (to reduce a multitude of things) on a small world with short history (~100 to ~200, if you're good with that) to reduce the constant history recalculations. Try embarking on a fort in a bigger world with longer history, and see how long it takes to run just those two weeks of calendar update. Should take several minutes, and that's when the game is doing nothing else. Now think what two weeks in fort mode corresponds to IRL. The history is a huge impact. I don't know if something is actually seriously wrong with that, or if DF just started processing the fact that it's creating way too much information during worldgen to do anything with during gameplay.
And then all the things you seemed to mention: turning off temperature, weather, lowering pop cap, etc. (something new with this version is that you can set a working absolute pop cap), and the other things that have always caused inevitable FPS death. FPS death might be accelerated due to history becoming more complex as the fort goes on and by more difficult pathfinding (climbing), but it's also worsened at a flat rate by things you can control. It's playable.
Try the G_FPS thing, and let us know how it works! And sorry if you already knew about it. Just seems like most people don't.