Eh, gameplay wise it's mostly strategy et al rather than tactical decisions (mostly; there's some stuff on the ground level with army composition, terrain, items, and choosing which spells to cast). Deciding where to go, how to use your resources, what's worth defending and not, so on, so forth. Illwinter mostly does that kind of thing... they tend to be pretty hands off so far as combat or fiddly construction or whatev' goes, and even with dominions (their bigger/more complicated game) all you do so far as that goes is set up formations and limited orders (charge forward, hold a couple turns, incentivise certain spells for a few turns, that sort of thing). There's a vaguely messed up amount of nuance involved there, but it's not your standard kind of direct control thing.
Vis a vis buildings, there are some permanent structure type things for some classes, though they're usually more modifying stuff that's already there than making new map features, but you're generally not flapping around building new towns, no. And not all classes have access to something like that, either.
It is kinda' slow, though. The games are actually intended to be relatively short, from what I understand,* but most of the classes don't have much that goes very fast and the way resource generation and seasons and whatnot function kinda' work counter to that t'boot. Some of the classes have an easier time with that... though I forget exactly which ones, ehehe.
Still, you'll probably find it taking less time as you get more familiar with things, get a better handle on expansion and what units move fastest, have to spend less time figuring out what you intend to do, and that sort of thing.
* Picking the largest map was pretty much guaranteed to make it a slog, basically, and the lowest difficulty AIs are... kinda' braindead, even for turn based strategy AI, to the point they pretty regularly get taken out by moose or somethin'. Smaller map and smarter AIs make for something where you're doing a lot less trudging around and a lot more other stuff. More commanders and more armies definitely can help, too.