I'm honestly confused about how the clothing system works in DF. I tried to read that bzyntine chart on the wiki and it only made be more confused.
I wrote that chart a good deal of time ago, and everything has undergone some change since then. I'm well aware that it needs some serious formatting to be made easier, but meh. There are other wiki-users besides me.
The procedure which dwarves in Fortress mode use to evaluate what they wear is what i'm most unsure about, and that part on the wiki could be considered outdated. They would happily slap on layer after layer of armor earlier is some unspecified edition, but seem content with less now.
Adventurers can still put on up to 4 chain mail armors though. The math is in the wiki page.
As for the chart, it's not that hard to understand. Armor made of different material counts as either clothing, leather, chain or plate(as specified in DF mode under the military tag), no matter what it actually is. I made a chart since you can't really see all this for yourself, but have to decode tags for armor in the in the RAW files', but printing that and instructions how to decode it would be much more confusing than that chart.
Also, civilians can be assigned armor, but CANNOT USE IT, until they are drafted or made into hunters. Hunters are an exception, and can work as civilians and be assigned any weapon and any type of armor and shield. They used to be restricted to maximum leather armor, but not any more.
If you kill everything on the map(yes after a while you kill all the animals in the region so they stop immigrating), all your dwarves can be hunters and perform normal dwarvenly stuff in full plate mail, hauling around a crossbow. I wouldn't think them dwarfy enough if they weren't.
Also, according to that chart, you shouldn't be able to get civilians to wear steel caps. It's considered Leather armor. But it's been revised a lot and could stand more updating if you're really sure about what you're changing, and understand the raw rags on a whole.
Pig tail jackets are as good civilian clothing as any i guess, but soldiers really require some more armor in order not to get hurt sparring or in actual combat.
Off-duty weapons for civilians would be nice.
There's a
suggestion up for it.