Can I add that I think you need to put things back together. I wouldn't care to try to repair a TV[1], and I already knew the answers to the following:
ok, what does a capasitor look like? and what does it do?
Whats CRT mean? and how do you discharge stuff? and how do I know if a compacitor is broken or not?
That I'm pointing out that you're asking these questions is not an insult to you (indeed, you
are asking), but even if we do give you enough information to correct your former lack of knowledge I wouldn't count that as a new-found capability to do the work you're asking for.
It's not just another step up from making a temporary repair to a low-power charger cable. Seriously.
The details as such in the footnotes are a 'summary' of what knowledge I could provide, but I wouldn't want to take that mish-mash of advice from anyone if
I was starting out. Not sure I'd even take it from myself, at the better-than-amateur-less-than-completely-competent level that I probably
am at, and someone who
is above me in experience level can probably give you several good reasons why ignoring me and just keeping out of it would ultimately be the wisest course of action. But it's there, anyway.
[1] I've poked around (fairly literally, but not entirely as carefree as it sounds) inside 'broken' ones which I was never going to actually repair. The dangerous bits are connected to the tube (this of course being applicable to the old-style non-flatscreen TVs) and the board (usually connected to obvious bare copper coils, and
by particularly thick but insulated wires) or part of the main-board, if all-in-one, that generates the deadlier degrees of currents. Earthing oneself is good, but if you're going into this area you also need an earth-connected probe of some kind
(edit: Oh yeah, resistors are good for bridging capacitors, but make sure you have less resistance to earth than you'd provide, still... not sure what my own resistor bands are, how many Ohms is the typical human body? ) to make prior contact with whatever you're likely to touch or work near to, to let it discharge. (Bad description that, but earthing oneself on one hand and touching such things with the other certainly isn't a good idea. Also, some components retain charge for a long time, so leaving it unpowered for a day or more is not something you should rely upon.)
The next most dangerous circuit is the mains-receiving bit, usually the worst bit in any other electrical product, although
obviously (right?) you're not going to be messing about with any mains switched on (plugged in for earthing purposes is useful, but make sure there's no chance of the power being switched on by yourself/inquisitive others unless you
know you need it on.)
Down at the bottom end (although may still be dangerous if either in close proximity to the above two sub-boards or all contained on the same single (or main) circuit board as the above) are the sub-circuits responsible for tuning, for receiving the IR signal from the remote, teletext/whatever decoding and the like. It's possible you can disconnect those, given them the necessary power rating from a benchtop PSU (or, if you're looking at the right volts/amps, the relevant rails supply of a PC PSU[2] and check their functionality with suitable measuring instruments. But it depends on the problem.
If it's just the power
switch that's broken, then you may be able to desolder the original and get a suitable match soldered back in again. But I honestly wouldn't go into anything more complicated. Beyond that (and identifying obviously blown capacitors, but with the warning on handling/working near the ones with the high voltages in them) it's analogue waveforms and digital pulses and I don't think you have the equipment to work it out from scratch. And I wouldn't care to do so on anything other than a throwaway piece of equipment, still. Actually fixing
might be simple, but I'd still prefer an electronic professional with experience to handle that sort of thing.
[2] Having made the green-to-black connection to signal a "power up" requirement, of course.